Marseille

The port town of Marseille ranks at the top of desirable cities for young French people to move to. Busy, dirty and noisy, it is hard to believe that this town was founded by Greek merchants back in 600 B.C. Walking around the town gives you a sense of rough defiance against the so-called bourgeois life the French lead. It is after all the "capital of immigrants" here- Arabs, sub-Saharan Africans, and the likes, sadly being shunned as 'non-French'.

Today, you find it bustling with sailors from all over the world, tourists from within France and neighboring countries of Europe and students who flock to its big university.


We visited Chateau d'If- the Alcatraz of Marseille. Even though originally built as a chateau, it is known for its use as a prison. Alexander Dumas based his novel The Count of Monte Cristo on a prisoner who had been held captive there. This prison also provides the backdrop for The Man in the Iron Mask.


view of Marseille from Chateau d'If

If we had another day, we would have loved to kayak this part of the Mediterranean sea to the steep limestone cliffs, better known as the "Calanques"

Meeting Lea in Annecy

I know Lea from my South Carolina days, 13 years ago, and we've kept in touch ever since. A town nestled amongst the French Alps was a perfect meeting place after 5 years! She brought along her baby- Tarek and I brought along mine- Amit!



We lucked out with a bright and sunny day. All day we walked along the shimmering lake, with Tarek taking a dip every now and then. He even made a new friend!

Amit fell in love with this quaint town- old European architecture...canals running to-and-fro...an alpine lake...mountains...what's not to love?

Some Tips

• Frommer's France 2007 is not accurate and thorough with a lot of information
• DO NOT go through Rail Europe to buy a Eurail Pass or any rail tickets. It's much easier and cheaper when done directly through the French SNCF
• With a Eurail/ France Saver Pass, it is free to travel on the intercity trains as many times as you wish within the validity period of the pass
• Every arrondisement in Paris has its own fresh markets. The Mairie or town hall/ tourism office and their website has info about the days/ location. The produce is simply marvelous and will save you some euros compared to the SuperMarche
• For apartment rentals, you need not go through an agency. You will end up paying an additional 500 euros for nothing. Also, before getting the "mandatory" insurance, check with the owners if they already have one that covers your apartment
• Many museums & monuments in Paris have free entry on the first Sunday of every month
• With a Bank of America ATM card, you can withdraw cash at any BNP Paribas ATM without paying a fee to either bank

Bordeaux

Not even a week in Paris, and we got sick of the dreary weather. Thanks to the Train de Grande Vitesse, we could jet-set 578km southwest of Paris in just 3 hours to warm and sunny Bordeaux. It's a beautiful city with an interesting juxtaposition of their ultra modern tramway running along cobblestone streets and ancient architecture all around.

Unfortunately, we were unable to catch a winery tour (completely booked during this tourist season) around the wine capital of the world, but were lucky enough to attend a wine tasting course at L'Ecole du Vin! We recommend this strongly; it's worth more than the 22 euros per person we paid.

Chateaux of Loire Valley

From Paris, we took the TGV to Blois and a bus takes you to the chateaux of Chambord, Cheverny as well as Blois. The most exciting discovery was that Herge's Marlinspike from Tintin was modeled after the chateau of Cheverny (see above & below). They even had a cool Tintin exposition as part of the visit.

Chateau de Chambord

Mont St. Michel

On the Northwest coast of France lies this Benedictine monastery, originally from the 8th century. Surrounded by water, it is connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway (sort of like Haji Ali in Bombay) accessible during low tide.

On our way up to the abbey, we had to pass through "diagon alley" (refer to Harry Potter), immensely crowded with tourists, and lined by 15th & 16th c. houses forming a little village at the base of the monastery.




On a clear day, because of its location, you can view the southern coast of England.

Tip: Do not pay for any of the museums - it is yet another tourist-fleecing scam! Get there early ('cause it takes ages to get around all the crowd of tourists going up the the abbey) to buy your ticket and take the guided tour, which is included with the admission price.

Temporary French Life

We've rented a tiny little place in the 1st arrondisement. The windows on the 5th floor look out onto a narrow European alley. A few steps from the building, we cross the street and we're at the Louvre, or Jardin des Tuileries if we wish, the Seine, the Metro...so central, we couldn't believe it.

Many local shops are closed for weeks this month, the Parisiens enjoying their vacation in south of France. However, we found a boulangerie around the corner, went to the open market for our fresh fruits and veggies, and have even found a routine with wine & cheese and an insatiable appetite for the daily baguette!

C'est Paris

It hadn't sunk in. But here we are! And what better way to introduce the city of romance than it's grandest icon...even though it didn't make it as one of the the 7 new wonders of the world.

We've been here a week now but too busy having fun to actually update the blog. The first 2 sunny days were spent soaking in the city, walking, sitting by the Seine, walking, watching street musicians in their glory, walking, making our way through tourists that dominate the city at this time of the year...walking....

The last few months in Taos

May 2007

Jayufui & Nirenfua visit: It was just a weekend but a wonderful one. Jayufui and Nirenfua love the southwest and this was a perfect opportunity for them to plan a trip to see us and something different in this area. While in Taos, we went to the Arts festival, enjoyed the fiery skies at sunset park, drove a ways to save a burning kiln with $40,000 worth of pottery, introduced them to Taos cow icecream and even hit Divisidero.

The rest of May flew by with our trip to Hawaii and anticipation and nervousness about Phoenix.

June 2007

Starting a new life in Phoenix: So we visited and found our first home! Excited but nervous about the decision. We were heading back on Father's day not knowing our life was about to change. Driving in to Taos at almost midnight, Amit's image of a deer materialized into reality this time. We swerved and the next thing we thought- "This is it!" My Super Trooper no longer looked super; completely crushed, but keeping us alive and unhurt. It was almost like a sign that our time in Taos was over.

Mom, Sunandamoushi and Tito arrive: We were so glad that Sunandamoushi could make Taos a halt on her cross-country move to San Jose. Tito melted our hearts immediately. They had a fun week with us as we did with them.

Solar Music Fest: The much anticipated and talked about event at K-Taos was finally here. Amit went along only for me as I didn't want to miss the experience, the music, the atmosphere, the vibes. And the lightning, thunder and rain added the element of drama to a rocking day.

July 2007

We did it: Our last month in Taos was marked by the hike up Wheeler Peak on July 4th! What a climb, what an exhilarating feeling! We had the real Star with us who didn't tire a bit with her 4WD capabilities. And when else would we see Khemarin "skiing" down a sheet of remainder snow in his hiking shoes!! At the end of the hike, we joined Mol and Ben for the parade at Arroyo Seco.

Farewell: It was time to say goodbye to the Seng/Ware family as they headed out to Colorado 2 weeks before we would be heading towards Paris. I never though special friendships could be built at this stage and in a short period of time...we will surely miss them!

The Pow-Wow: I had been told by Gina not to miss this event at the Pueblo and I didn't. It was a fitting way to end our stay in Taos, being part of the Pueblo festivities with the backdrop of Taos mountain, knowing it will bring us back in different ways. Mark and Mary welcomed us into their home and heart and they were one of the many people in Taos we will never forget...


dedicated Anthony, dynamic Marty, genuine Nancy, funky Stephanie, fun Betty, warm Susan, nice Julie, wonderful Emily, helpful Steph, laughing Larry, sensible Stephen, meticulous Lovey, gentle Eliane, and this list will go on...

Festivities and Visitors in Taos

December 2006

Skiing for the first time: The snow had arrived, the slopes sparkled bright, and I got ready for my first yellow bird lesson. Starting with Strawberry Hill and Ruegli, Taos Ski School had me progress fast to Whitefeather, Honeysuckle and Powderhorn. I never aspired for the blacks, but couldn't have had more fun my first time skiing. By the end of the season, I had skiied about 5 weekends and learnt interesting tips to unfreeze my fingers.

The Holidays: The family was excited to discover the mystical Taos we had been raving about. Mom and Dad were just taken by the sunny winter and warm floors in Julia Roberts' town. We enjoyed our days around the fireplace, walks along the rim of Rio Gorge, train from Durango to Cascade Canyon, hiking Great Sand Dunes to Zapata Falls and discovering the Pueblo culture together.

















































































New Year's Eve at the Ski Valley: Now that I had learnt skiing, I was not only in awe seeing the torchlight parade down the slopes, but truly appreciated the skill it required to do it so beautifully. Professional skiers skiied down a double black diamond slope, very slowly, in the dark, with torch flames in each hand. Unfortunately, I don't have pics that do justice. It was a short evening ending with the usual- fireworks.

January 2007

Cousin's Reunion: Almost 4 years since Chicago, the reunion was long overdue. Taos was an obvious choice where the whole bunch ventured out to our little abode. The highlight of the weekend was our snowshoeing adventure through Enchanted Forest. Skiing, watching Adit fall on his butt several times, new mexican green chile cheese fries, Outback pizzeria, were all a close second.

Jason and Parul stayed the rest of the week which gave us a whole lot of time to chill, chat and celebrate. And just like that, the first month of the new year flew by...

February 2007

Aaron & Jen visit: I was finally gonna see Aaron and Jen after a long long time. A change of plans was in order right from the start when their flight got delayed. We just spent the night in Santa Fe and it gave us a chance to explore the town together. Jen was reminded of long drives as a child and let the high road lull her to sleep. She also battled sweaty palms standing on the Rio Grande bridge looking several 100 ft below. And was a trooper on the snowshoe hike to Williams lake in spite of horrible shoe bites. Amit and Aaron topped off the hike with 26oz beer jugs each and the evening went on merrily ever after!

March 2007

Amit's annual trip to Vegas was followed by the fellow's reunion. He worked on cadavers while I worked on dough at the pizza baking workshop Gina organized. I have never eaten a more delicious authentic wood fired pizza... Thanks Karen!

The ski season ended with the pond skimming contest where we were witness to some wild costumed crazy skiiers. We managed to have a blast of a time even with Amit popping a hip back in place for a contestant who decided to ski backwards into the pond!

April 2007

Jason & Kelly visit: We managed to accomplish all the things we had planned for their visit even though Jason missed his flight :) Amit and I finally went up the Sandia peak tramway with Kelly and met the 'alien' boy who lives in my purse now. Kelly conquered her fear for water on our rafting trip down Rio Grande. We let crazy Gary Fey take us into his world of Batik and even enjoyed another evening with Karen and George to make Kelly's favorite meal- the homemade pizza! Time seemed to be plentiful as we found time to sneak away to Ojo Caliente. After this trip, Jason is convinced that Amit is just a phantom doc!

Sandia peak, Albuquerque

Learning Gary Fey's Batik

hike at Ojo Caliente
Baking Pizza, Karen's way

beginnings in Taos

August 2006

Let the Adventures begin: Our year in Taos began on a rather interesting note. We realized we needed a second car, specifically a 4WD. An individual seller on Craigslist was offering a 1988 Isuzu Trooper in rather good shape. And a short test drive later, I had purchased my first car: the Super Trooper, as it came to be known.

Less than a week later, our first trip in my Trooper was to Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado. The drive through San Juan National Forest was just spectacular.

Amit couldn't have chosen a better bed and breakfast than the Inn at McElmo Canyon in Cortez. The room, the hospitality, the views, the jacuzzi, the dogs, the winery...it was perfect! And it put us halfway between Ute Mountain Reservation and Mesa Verde. If you plan a trip to that area, I totally recommend going to the Ute Mountain Reservation. Tours are run by the Ute tribe (and rather than going into the reservation with your own vehicle, I recommend paying the extra amount to be taken in their van for a first-hand account from the tour guide). It is a strenuous but an adventurous day tour. The area is still virgin, not commercial like Mesa Verde, and truly takes you back to the time of the cliff dwellers.

You cannot miss Mesa Verde, of course. We were lucky to get access to some cliff dwellings that had never been opened to public except during their centennial. Getting the passes online ahead of time is a good idea and soaking it all in over 2-3 days is ideal.















The Trooper had made its first wonderful trip with us but decided to betray us at the top of the mountain in Mesa Verde. If it weren't for the failure of the fuel pump, we would have never had the opportunity to meet Brothers Dumb and Dumber- our tow truck guys. If you want to have a good laugh about this story, call Amit.

Thanks to our mountain bikes from Taos Cyclery, a good samaratin from Farmington and Motel 8, we hung in there for 2 days! Two tows and $1000 dollars later, we headed back to Taos, little knowing that our adventures for this year had just begun.


Stray Hearts Animal Shelter: Right from the start, I connected with Stray Hearts and never believed I could get so much happiness...Candace got a wonderful home





















Hiking Unlimited: The first of our many hikes in Taos with Khemarin, Molly and Ben-Williams Lake at 11,000 ft

September 2006

San Geronimo festival at Taos Pueblo: we couldn't take pictures but what a wonderful experience it was. Mark and Mary invited us to their home. We brought a basket of fruits which was "blessed" by the Chippanaws. The pole climbing was fascinating as were the dances.

October 2006

Finding Smokey: Our day on the Cumbres Toltec RR changed completely when Smokey came to Amit out of nowhere pleading the 'don't leave me' look! Thanks to Stray Hearts and Emily and Mike, he is loved and no longer lost.
The Balloon Fiesta: Jason and Kelly had to cancel their trip so we ventured out to the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, just the 2 of us. The opening weekend festivities were rained out so we headed back the next weekend for the closing festivities and kicked up the fun a notch by volunteering as crew for the special shape hot air balloon glow.

The journey: Everything we did in NM was about the journey and not the destination. Driving the turquoise trail and eating lunch at a Cuban cafe in Madrid, exploring the high road to Taos, Nambe falls, taking a detour from Abiqui, taking the long way home...we enjoyed it all!

Parul and Jeanette's Visit: A warm fall October ended with Parul and Jeanette's visit. It was so much fun hanging out in the evenings, taking them for authentic southwestern bites at Orlando's and trying to battle an untimely snow storm en route Great Sand Dunes.

November 2006

Dixon studio tour: What a weekend walking around art galleries and sneaking a hike to Pilar. Some of the artists were unforgettable- the black and white photography of Judith Vejvoda, the Raku pottery by MiyA and our first introduction to Stephen Kilborn.

Flying the Santa Fe skies: Most may think I'm crazy to have given Amit this birthday gift, but he sure loved flying that World War II plane over Santa Fe right up to Cochiti Lake. The thrill of a roll, flip and dive marked a n eventful beginning to the third decade of his life.

Taos, here we come

Our journey towards the southwest had begun when we left Pittsburgh for Chicago, where Amit took his Orthopaedic boards, and headed out on a cross country drive with Adit and Ujjaini.

From Badlands to Mt. Rushmore, we explored sites while driving across 6 states in 4 days finally entering the land of enchantment.

Some favorite moments:

Hiking Notch trail at Badlands














Chasing lightning at sunset













Spotting pronghorn deer at Black Hills national forest














Being touristy at Mt. Rushmore














To view our slideshow of the road trip click here